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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.